Відео

lol, no problem. Glad you like it🙏

Don’t think fuzzy skin would do anything. Just need the 1st layer dialed in so lays down the proper line thickness. There weren’t any gaps in the print, on issue on the white is there was some stringing on the black layer I didn’t catch that got embedded in the white.

@@DaveRigDesign Sorry my words. English is not my first language. ;o) But I am glad you could understand what I meant. Thanks for your feedback.

Thanks 🙏 Ya it’s kind of house paint these days is 1 coat and is almost as thick as glue :)

Probably would work also.

Ya, from some angles it looked ok, but other were weird due to the visor warping effect.

@@DaveRigDesign I feel like the visor came out looking really good! I think it's pretty much impossible to get it looking absolutely perfect. I love Metroid and I just got into 3D printing. Been struggling a lot. Been trying to print with ABS.

@LelandHasGames ABS it tough unless you have an enclosed printer. I would stick to pla if your just starting out until you get the hand of thing, it’s way easier to work with.

@@DaveRigDesign I had some success with ASA and I've had lots of success with PLA. Most of my filament is ABS though. :/

Thanks :)

If you need solid clear spheres you would need to use silicon molds and 2 part epoxy.

And take way longer and much more effort

Playing tug should be fine. I doubt the tpu will break. It only failed when my husky chewed on it the cut it.

Thanks 🙏

@@DaveRigDesign Hi, there. Noob question, here. Why that rectangle shape was made at 03:32? To clean up the nozzle? Thanks.

At first I was printing with a print tower which is where the printer prints a little inner square before going to the print. It’s to make sure there is not colour bleeding when changing.

@@DaveRigDesign Oh, nice. Thanks.

If you didn’t want to paint but still have a smooth surface I would try clear resin, either 2 part or UV. Just need one that doesn’t yellow and stays clear. Then you can apply multiple layers sanding between to build up a clear candy coating. I have a few videos on my channel showing the process, I paint after but it’s the same idea.

Thanks, glad you liked it 🙏

Yeah I have no idea where to find that hope you get the answer

@min0rmeme108 the mesh can be seen in the fluid interface. I think you can get to it from the Creality slicer or at lease you can get the up address of your machine and they type that into a web browser and get to it that way. But your machine needs to be hooked up to your home network to access it

@@DaveRigDesign I had to root the k1 max to be able to see it

@DaveRigDesign thanks for the reply I'm actively trying to figure this thing out just started 3d printing like 4 days ago started well enough and hit the fan yesterday

@min0rmeme108 that should be needed. You should be able to see it without rooting

I wouldn’t think so. Unless you use alot of powder. When I cured my resin there would still be an oily film left which it why I would wipe them down with IPA before sanding. Is that what you are seeing? Other than the residue the resin would fully cure.

Thanks. Sanding resin is so much easier then sanding pla :)

Thanks and You’re welcome. 😀

Thanks. That would be a lot of baby powder, but would work :) or drive down a dust road for a while. You don’t need to make perfect circles around the car just going around in bands so ovals are fine.

@@DaveRigDesign haha thanks. I have a gravel driveway so ill spend some time hooning around on that. A drone would work best? Keeping an equal distance away?

You could use a drone but you can cover most just with a camera. Maybe a step ladder to get up higher to get the roof

I used to use a lazy Susan when I had a more permanent setup, it’s defiantly easier if you scan a lot of things In really like nomad sculpt. Using the iPad pencil makes things a lot easier. But blender would also be fine. Zbrush is the industry standard software for sculpting but it’s pricy and has a steep learning curve due to its UI :) Any decent camera will work fine. Higher res images will give more detail but come with higher processing times and camera price. You can also just take more/closer images to get the same effect.

​@@DaveRigDesign Thanks! I will take a look at Nomad Sculpt.

Awesome. Getting a clean scan of a person with 1 camera is difficult as even small movements will create noise and misalignments. Make sure you have something to hold onto like 2 chairs or something while being scanned to help stay still.

I think it’s more even just due to being thicker and being more material to level out. Just resin goes on thinner so there is less material to flatten out.

Gravity is still a thing :) Adding a rotating base will pull it all down to the bottom as it’s the largest circumference

@@DaveRigDesign the problem isn't gravity it is the lateral forces not spreading out the solution causing spotting. Rotational motion will provide the lateral force and gravity the downward giving an even thickness. They use this in chip fabrication.

Only smooth, uniform colour, shiny things

Nope, not yet. Ai can create general idea of the object and the mesh is not great.

The cleanup was due to not prepping the tape measure properly. The controller only needed to have the base removed. After taking the pics there are 4 steps, it’s pretty manageable. Where AI can help is working with the texture to get even lighting and shadow removal. That in the most difficult part which I didn’t show cuz it’s not needed for printing.

Somewhat. The black square next to the camera you can see in some of the video is a soft box. Since textures aren’t used lighting is less important. Normally you want flat even light to avoid shadows being baked into the texture. But that’s isn’t a concern so as long as it’s well lit with no dark shadows it should be fine

Thanks! Yes it is. The tape measure is printed on the ender3 v3, the controller mount printed on a Bambi p1p and the show on a K1 Max

Thanks, 👍🏻

Thanks, glad you liked it 🙏

In fusion it’s just a matter on importing the mesh. You’ll want to bring down the poly count a lot 1st or fusion will choke. You can do this in RC or a modeling program. Usually the scans come in at an odd orientation and the scale needs to be adjusted to match the real asset. This also can de done in either program.

You found my Easter egg. It took so long to paint that in the pounder…. lol Jk

Living things are tricky because of the object being scanned deforms in shape at all it causes alignment issues and noise, and it’s almost impossible for a human to hold an expression long enough. Normally to do this you build a rig of multiple cameras that all fire at the same time to avoid this issue. It is possible to get someone to sit still while you quickly take the pictures but it’s difficult. Possibly you could create a generic head mesh and then just scan the persons face and merge it onto the mesh. Saves scanning the whole head.

Took me maybe 1hr from scanning to mesh ready to print including waiting for processing. If you need to model a complex mesh that is a 100% copy of a really life object there is no faster way.

You can scale in RC or on your editing software after. You just need to know a measurement between 2 points on the mesh and then uniformly scale the mesh until those points match the real world item measurements.

Thanks 🙏